Source: Touchstone Energy® Cooperatives

Healthy hearts face risks from many different factors: high cholesterol, obesity, diabetes, tobacco use, an unhealthy diet, physical inactivity, and secondhand smoke, among others. But another common—and often misunderstood—risk factor is high blood pressure.

One in three Americans suffers from high blood pressure, according to the American Heart Association (AHA). With February designated as American Heart Month, now’s a great time to understand more about this condition.

Blood pressure is typically recorded as two numbers, written as a ratio: 118/75 mm Hg. The top number, systolic, measures pressure in the arteries when a heart beats and the heart muscle contracts. The bottom number, diastolic, measures pressure in the arteries between heartbeats (when the heart muscle rests between beats and refills with blood).

The AHA lists five stages of blood pressure:

• Normal: Systolic less than 120 and diastolic less than 80
• Prehypertension: Systolic between 120-139 or diastolic between 80-89
• High Blood Pressure Stage 1: Systolic between 140-159 or diastolic between 90-99
• High Blood Pressure Stage  2: Systolic 160 and higher or diastolic 100 or higher
• Hypertensive Crisis (emergency care needed): Systolic 180 and higher or diastolic 110 or higher

How is high blood pressure diagnosed?

Health care providers want an accurate picture of blood pressure to chart what happens over time. Starting at age 20, AHA recommends a blood pressure screening at least once every two years.

If a patient’s blood pressure reading comes in higher than normal, a doctor may take several readings over time and/or have the patient monitor blood pressure levels at home before diagnosing high blood pressure.

A single high reading does not necessarily translate to high blood pressure. However, if readings stay at 140/90 mm Hg or above (systolic 140 or above OR diastolic 90 or above) over time, a doctor will likely begin a treatment program. Such a program almost always includes lifestyle changes and often prescription medication.

If, while monitoring blood pressure, a patient notes a systolic reading of 180 mm Hg or higher OR a diastolic reading of 110 mm HG or higher, the patient should wait a few minutes and try again. If the reading remains at or above that level, a patient should seek immediate emergency medical treatment for a hypertensive crisis.

Which number is more important, systolic (top) or diastolic (bottom)?

Typically, more attention is given to the top number (the systolic blood pressure) as a major risk factor for cardiovascular disease for people over 50. In most cases, systolic blood pressure rises steadily with age because of increasing stiffness of large arteries, long-term build-up of plaque, and increased incidence of cardiac and vascular disease.

To learn more, visit www.heart.org.

Source: American Heart Association

The greatest sources of heating and cooling losses in your home are often invisible―air leaks. As a result, controlling air leaks provides the best way to extend the life of your home, conserve energy, save money, and increase comfort.

Bottom line? If you don’t tighten up your home first, money spent on insulation may be wasted.

Fortunately, you can seal a lot of leaks around your home’s exterior with less than $100 worth of caulk. It’s generally possible to seal openings up to one-quarter inch between window frames and siding or around door frames. For larger gaps, add a backing material before caulking, or use a spray foam sealant instead.

Most types of outdoor caulk are sold in tubes that fit a caulking gun. In addition, some caulks come in aerosol cans; they’re a good choice for filling gaps up to one-half inch around pipes and wires.

When shopping for caulk, there are myriad choices. Prices range from a couple of dollars to several dollars per tube, so be sure to read the labels and choose a product that will adhere best to the materials you’re sealing.

If your budget allows, spend a little more for a higher-quality caulk. Inexpensive caulks may last only a few years, while premium-priced caulks are rated for 20 years or more.

Caulk like a Pro

• As a rule of thumb, you’ll probably use half a cartridge per window or door and up to six cartridges for foundation work.
• Most caulks pose no known health hazards after they’re fully cured. However, some high-performance caulking compounds contain irritating or potentially toxic ingredients, so you should carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions and take the appropriate precautions.
• The best time to apply caulk is during dry weather when outdoor temperatures are above 45 degrees. Low humidity is important during application to prevent cracks from swelling with moisture.
• If the gap you’re sealing is too wide, use a special filler made for the purpose. You’ll find fillers in the caulking department of your local hardware store or home center. However, note that fillers are not designed for exposure to the elements; so you’ll need to caulk or seal over it.
• Before applying new caulk, remove the old caulk or paint residue with a putty knife, stiff brush, or special solvent.
• Make sure your work area is dry, so you won’t seal in moisture.
• Hold the caulking gun at a consistent angle; 45 degrees is best.
• Caulk in a straight, continuous stream, avoiding stops and starts, and make sure the caulk sticks to both sides of the crack or seam.
• Send caulk to the bottom of an opening to avoid bubbles.
• Release the trigger on the caulking gun before pulling it away from the crack to prevent applying too much caulk. A caulking gun with an automatic release makes this much easier.
• Don’t skimp. If the caulk shrinks, reapply it to form a smooth bead that completely seals the crack.
• If caulk oozes out of a crack, use a putty knife to push it back in.
• Once you’ve applied caulk, it takes time for it to dry, or cure. Curing time is described in two ways. The tack-free time tells you how quickly the fresh caulk’s outer surface will dry or skin over. The total cure time indicates the time required for the caulk to become completely stable—or reach the point where no further drying or shrinking will occur.
• Don’t allow pets and small children to come into contact with fresh caulk.

Use expanding foam for large gaps

• Be sure to use the correct type of spray foam for the job. Polyurethane expandable spray foam works well around pipes and gaps around the foundation. However, this type of caulk expands with so much force that it can cause damage to window frames and door frames. In those spots, use a water-based spray foam specifically designed for the job.
• Expanding foam is ideal for filling cracks that caulks can’t handle. It comes in aerosol cans and takes a short time to cure. The foam is very sticky and attaches itself quickly, so be prepared to pick up any messes fast.
• To seal gaps too wide for foam, use foil-faced bubble wrap. For really large holes, cut sections of rigid foam insulation to fit and then glue into place with expanding foam before covering the area with wood or another appropriate building material.

Find more ways to seal your home and save at EnergySavers.gov or www.TogetherWeSave.com.

Sources: U.S.  Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy, ENERGY STAR, and product manufacturers

But there’s no oasis of comfort when your home is too cold in winter or oppressively hot in the summer. That means it’s leaking air—and wasting money.

One of the best things you can do if you have high electric bills is check the insulation. How much is in your attic and basement or crawl space? What kind is it? Is there an air barrier along with the insulation? The answers to these questions will determine how much energy and money you can save.

Air infiltration is one of the main problems for most homes. It’s healthy to have some air flow in and out of your home, but too much leads to discomfort and high electric bills. Properly installed insulation paired with an air barrier can do a lot to save.

If you have fiberglass insulation―whether blown or rolled batts—you’ll need to create an air barrier by sealing all of the cracks and gaps between the living spaced and unfinished areas with caulk and expanding foam. Cellulose does a better job of blocking air, but only foam insulation offers its own air barrier.

Check out EnergySavers.gov to learn more about insulation. You can also contact [co-op name] and talk to one of our energy advisers about whether your home needs more insulation. By doing so, you’ll be well on your way to a more comfortable home—and lower electric bills.

NRECA’s Straight Talk Alert
Leadership Column/Editorial
For February 2012
Word Count: 264